Today was quite possibly the best day of biking so far. It took a few hours to clear all the city smog and cigarette smoke from my lungs, but I quickly got into my groove. There was about 30k of steep climbing, but the weather was nice, and the riding felt great. I then had 30k of the most amazing decent ever. Tiny winding roads, passing through beautiful villages, with views into jungle valleys on both sides. Truly spectacular. I'm now in a village called Pintara, which is a wonderful place. My hotel room and dinner cost only 9000 pesos (US$4.50) And I've finally found ice cream, and lots of it. Life is good.