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Peru seems to be passing Colombia for country with the nicest people. I am literally spending half of my waking hours talking to locals. Everyone wants to know about me, my trip, or maybe just talk politics. I think I spent five hours today talking with various folks. Everyone is extremely helpful.
Peru is also well on it's way to surpassing Guatemala for the country with the worst roads. I have hit a 200km section of hard dirt roads riddled with potholes. The dirt is as hard as concrete, and it's just not any fun trying to descend on it. I'm giving serious thought to skipping the next 100k of evil lumpy road to get to the paved part.
It is wonderful to get out of the city. The area I'm riding is very unpopulated, with only mud-brick houses, wheat fields, sheep, cows, and donkeys.
Speaking of sheep, I recommend against the sheep's tongue soup.